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Humectants & Emollients

Squalane

Also known as: Squalane oil, Hydrogenated squalene

A skin-identical, ultra-stable emollient oil that softens without clogging pores — the gentle face-oil standard.

In short

Squalane is a saturated, hydrogenated version of squalene — a lipid your own skin produces as part of its natural sebum. Hydrogenation makes it stable in air, unlike squalene, which oxidizes quickly. In skincare, squalane is prized as a lightweight, non-comedogenic emollient that smooths and softens skin, works for nearly every skin type, and has an extremely low irritation profile.

  • A skin-identical lipid (hydrogenated squalene)
  • Historically from shark liver; today plant-derived (olive, sugarcane)
  • Stable and oxidation-resistant, unlike squalene
  • Non-comedogenic and very low irritation risk

What is Squalane?

Squalene — with an 'e' — is a natural component of human sebum, the oil your skin produces for itself. The problem is chemistry: squalene oxidizes rapidly, which is why skincare uses its saturated cousin squalane (with an 'a'), which delivers the same skin-identical softening with excellent shelf stability. Once sourced from shark liver oil, modern squalane is almost entirely plant-derived — pressed from olives, fermented from sugarcane, or produced synthetically — and it has become the default gentle facial oil.

Where it comes from

Natural sources

  • Olive oil (the classic plant source)
  • Sugarcane (fermentation-derived, popular in newer brands)
  • Rice bran and amaranth
  • Historically: shark liver oil (largely phased out)

How it's made

Squalane can also be produced synthetically via hydrogenation of squalene.

What it does in products

  • Emollient: softens and smooths the skin surface
  • Occlusive-lite: reduces water loss without heavy grease
  • Carrier oil that boosts the spreadability of formulas
  • Compatibility with skin's own sebum

Benefits

Softening and smoothing

strong evidence

As an emollient, squalane fills in microscopic gaps between dead skin cells, making skin feel and look smoother immediately.

Very low irritation risk

strong evidence

Because it mimics skin's own lipids, squalane is among the least irritating oils available — a go-to for sensitive, reactive, and post-procedure skin.

Hydration support

moderate evidence

Squalane does not add water itself, but as a light occlusive it slows evaporation — especially effective layered over humectants like hyaluronic acid or glycerin.

Non-comedogenic face oil

moderate evidence

Squalane has a low comedogenic rating in standard testing, making it one of the few oils routinely recommended for acne-prone skin.

Side effects & safety

Breakouts in very rare cases (rare)Low comedogenic risk, but any occlusive can trigger individual reactions — patch test if acne-prone.
Greasy feel if over-applied (uncommon)Two to four drops is usually enough for the full face.

Safety considerations

  • Topical squalane is considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
  • None known; pairs well with humectants, ceramides, and actives.
  • Not for: Known allergy to the source oil (rare)

How it's used

In skincare

Squalane is used neat (100%) as a facial oil or blended into creams, serums, and balms, typically at 5–50%. Apply as the last step after water-based serums and moisturizer to seal hydration.

Regulatory status

  • Cosmetic ingredient under the FD&C Act; also GRAS for food use.
  • GRAS (generally recognized as safe) for food use.
  • INCI name on cosmetic labels: Squalane.
  • The CIR Expert Panel has assessed squalane as safe in cosmetics.

Popular products containing Squalane

  • 100% Plant-Derived Squalane — Budget-pure squalane oilThe Ordinary · skincare
  • Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil — Sugarcane-derived, antioxidant blendBiossance · skincare
  • Ultra Facial Cream — Squalane-based cult moisturizerKiehl's · skincare

Product names and brands are shown for reference and belong to their respective owners.

Squalane vs squalene (and why it matters)

The one-letter difference is a stability revolution. Squalene has six double bonds, making it highly reactive — it oxidizes and can become comedogenic as it degrades. Squalane is the fully hydrogenated form: no double bonds, no oxidation, long shelf life, and the same skin-identical feel. Any product listing 'squalene' with an 'e' on the label should raise a freshness question; 'squalane' is the stable, preferred form.

Frequently asked questions

Is squalane good for oily or acne-prone skin?

Generally yes. Squalane is lightweight and non-comedogenic, and it can even help normalize the feel of oily skin that is over-washed and dehydrated. As with any new oil, introduce it gradually and watch for individual reactions.

Should I use squalane before or after moisturizer?

After. Water-based products (serums, moisturizers) go first to deliver hydration; a few drops of squalane on top seals it in. You can also mix two to three drops into your moisturizer in one step.

Is squalane the same as the squalene my skin makes?

Almost. Your skin produces squalene, the unsaturated version; squalane is its stable hydrogenated cousin. Because both are structurally close to skin lipids, they feel remarkably 'at home' on skin, which is the source of squalane's legendary tolerance.

The bottom line

Squalane is the safest default in the facial-oil category: skin-identical, stable, non-comedogenic, and nearly impossible to irritate. It pairs beautifully with humectants and ceramides — think of it as the finishing seal over your hydration routine.

References

  1. Squalane and squalene in skincare — literature search. PubMed (National Library of Medicine). https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=squalane+skin
  2. Squalene compound summary. PubChem (National Library of Medicine). https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/638072
  3. Cosmetic Ingredient Review — squalane safety assessment. Cosmetic Ingredient Review. https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients
  4. Squalene and its derivatives in skincare — review. PubMed (National Library of Medicine). https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=squalene+sebum+skin+barrier