Licorice Root Extract
Also known as: Glycyrrhiza glabra, Glabridin, Glycyrrhizin, Liquorice extract
The brightening-soothing botanical — glabridin for dark spots and glycyrrhizin for redness, with an oral blood-pressure caution.
In short
Licorice root extract is a two-part ingredient defined by its chemistry. Glabridin, a compound in the root, inhibits tyrosinase — the melanin-producing enzyme — and is one of the better-studied botanical skin brighteners, frequently used in dark-spot formulas. Glycyrrhizin, the sweet component, is a genuine anti-inflammatory used in soothing creams and even prescription-grade preparations for redness. The caution applies to eating licorice, not wearing it: large or prolonged oral intake of glycyrrhizin can raise blood pressure through its aldosterone-like effects.
- Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase — a natural dark-spot fighter
- Glycyrrhizin calms redness and irritation
- Common in brightening and redness-relief serums
- Oral licorice can raise blood pressure — topical is safe
What is Licorice Root Extract?
Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra) has been medicine and candy for millennia, and its skincare career draws on both identities: the root's anti-inflammatory chemistry soothes, and a specialized compound, glabridin, quietly blocks the enzyme that makes dark spots. That dual profile — calm redness and fade pigment — makes licorice extract one of the most versatile botanicals in brightening serums for sensitive skin, a category where harsher actives often fail. The one serious caveat belongs to the candy aisle: oral licorice, not the serum.
Where it comes from
Natural sources
- Root of Glycyrrhiza glabra, a legume native to Europe and Asia
- Glycyrrhizin gives the root its sweetness (50× sweeter than sugar)
- Glabridin is a minor but pharmacologically active flavonoid
How it's made
Skincare uses whole-root extracts or isolates standardized to glabridin; some products use deglycyrrhizinated forms.
What it does in products
Benefits
Hyperpigmentation and brightening
moderate evidenceGlabridin inhibits tyrosinase in vitro and in human studies; licorice-containing products measurably lighten UV-induced pigmentation and even tone — slower than hydroquinone but gentler.
Redness and irritation relief
moderate evidenceGlycyrrhizin's anti-inflammatory effects calm redness and stinging; licorice is a common component of products for rosacea-prone and post-treatment skin.
Oil control and acne support
emerging evidenceLicorice extracts show sebum-regulating and mild antimicrobial effects in some studies — a supporting role in acne formulas rather than a primary treatment.
Side effects & safety
Safety considerations
- Topical licorice extracts are generally considered safe; oral licorice root is not recommended in pregnancy (hypertension and preterm concerns).
- Topical use: none significant. Oral licorice interacts with diuretics and blood-pressure medications.
- Not for: Allergy to licorice
How it's used
In skincare
Extracts typically appear at 0.5–5% in serums and creams, often alongside niacinamide, arbutin, or vitamin C. Use once or twice daily; brightening results accrue over 8–12 weeks.
Regulatory status
- Cosmetic ingredient; oral licorice root is a dietary supplement. FDA has warned about excessive consumption of glycyrrhizin-containing candy.
- INCI name on cosmetic labels: Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract.
- CIR reviewed Glycyrrhiza glabra-derived ingredients as safe in cosmetics at typical use levels.
Popular products containing Licorice Root Extract
- Licorice pH Balancing Cleansing TonerAcwell · Skincare
- 10% Azelaic Acid Booster — Contains licorice root extractPaula's Choice · Skincare
- Radiance Pads — Contains licorice root extractFirst Aid Beauty · Skincare
Product names and brands are shown for reference and belong to their respective owners.
Licorice in candy vs licorice in serum
The active sweetener in real licorice candy, glycyrrhizin, mimics aldosterone — the hormone that retains sodium and raises blood pressure. A few grams of genuine licorice daily can push blood pressure up and potassium down, which is why the FDA has flagged overconsumption and why most US 'licorice' candy contains little or no actual licorice root. None of this transfers to skincare: glycyrrhizin in topical formulas acts locally as an anti-inflammatory without meaningful systemic absorption, and brightening formulas typically standardize to glabridin anyway. The serum is safe; the habit of eating whole bags of European black licorice is the actual health question.
Frequently asked questions
Does licorice root extract fade dark spots?
Yes, gradually — glabridin blocks tyrosinase, the melanin-making enzyme, and studies show licorice products lighten UV-induced pigmentation. Expect results over 8–12 weeks, comparable to other gentle brighteners.
Is licorice extract safe for sensitive skin?
It is one of the better choices precisely because its anti-inflammatory component offsets irritation — many brightening products aimed at sensitive or rosacea-prone skin are built on licorice. Patch-test as with any new active.
Does licorice skincare raise blood pressure?
No — the blood-pressure effect comes from eating large amounts of real licorice candy or root, not from topical cosmetics, which deliver negligible systemic exposure.
The bottom line
Licorice root extract is the gentle multi-tasker of brightening: glabridin fades pigment while glycyrrhizin calms the irritation that other brighteners cause. Choose it for sensitive skin and realistic, gradual results — and keep the hypertension caution where it belongs, at the candy counter.
References
- Glabridin and melanin inhibition — literature search. PubMed (National Library of Medicine). https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=glabridin+melanin+tyrosinase
- Licorice extract and skin pigmentation — literature search. PubMed (National Library of Medicine). https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=licorice+extract+hyperpigmentation
- Glycyrrhizin and blood pressure — literature search. PubMed (National Library of Medicine). https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=glycyrrhizin+blood+pressure+hypertension
- Glabridin compound records. PubChem (National Library of Medicine). https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/#query=glabridin